Hex Shelves

I made these hex shelves for the office. They’re unfinished. I think I want to paint the outside area white to match the room’s trim and the outer face of the shelves dark to simulate the look of the hex paper used for mapping, but I don’t know what to do with the inside of the shelves. One idea I had was to use the colors of the terrain from the old Greyhawk map, another was to just leave it natural or use a light stain, and the last was to just remain completely undecided. The second part of finishing this shelf is deciding if I want to put a backing on it. One idea would be mirror and another would be to put the actual Greyhawk map as the backing. I could also match the shelving in the rest of the office, but being as they hang just above and beside the dark stained DnD shelf, that seems unnecessary. Decisions, decisions.HexShelves
I had wanted to do them differently than they turned out. The original plan was for them to be made with a single thickness throughout, no double sides. That didn’t work out, mostly due to my lack of patience. Lots of math. Lots of cuts. Lots of mistakes.
Things started to get ‘off’ when I realized that despite setting my table saw to a specific dimension and angle, setting the chop saw and setting a stop block, my pieces were not coming out to a consistent size. Mind you, that last bit didn’t become obvious until I was well into the construction phase of the project.
So having all these pieces cut and a half dozen hexes put together, I decided rather than waste the effort, I’d just finish it. It didn’t turn out exactly like I envisioned, there are lots of flaws (some obvious, some less so), and lots of filler, but I can make it work. And maybe as my wood working skills improve and I figure some things out, maybe I’ll try again.
P.S., Most of the stuff in the picture is just stuff I put on the shelf to take the picture.


0 responses to “Hex Shelves”

  1. I think you can solve the disparity between the widths of adjacent borders vs. the edge borders relatively easily by doubling the width of the edge borders with additional wood glued onto the edge borders. You could even do it as more of a “molding” along the front edges so that you maintain the width that they currently hold if you wanted to (i.e. convex configurations like where the Zorro figure is would narrow, while concave configurations like where the D20 is would widen) , but the depth would be shortened by how deep the “molding” was, so there’s that trade-off.
    Just a thought.
    One downside to doing it that was would be that it might look weird if you stained the front-facing surfaces or left the wood grain showing in any way since it wouldn’t match up. You’d have to paint it to hide that, but you have painting it on the table anyway. 🙂